Whiskey Tavern, in the bowels of side-street Chinatown and steps away from the courthouses, is slick on the outside but thoughtfully and thoroughly weathered at its core. Its snappy black-and-gold façade masks the army of battered bar stools, distressed wooden booths and sleepy colored-glass lamps inside, where the lack of pretension is comforting yet vaguely spooky, suggesting the eerie shadow of taverns past.
Although Whiskey Tavern, mere weeks old, is just a spring chicken in this neighborhood of ancient justice and timeless Chinese eateries, the Tavern’s address has been home to bars since the second World War. Not long ago, the spot was known as the Baxter Pub—a straightforward semi-dive with the primary perk of being across the street from a cluster of bail bond businesses. Location, location, location.
Whiskey Tavern—79 Baxter Street in its current incarnation—is strong proof that brothers George and Justin Ruotolo aren’t new to this business. The two also own Whiskey Town, off the Bowery at East Third Street, and they—along with Tavern’s third owner, Rob Magill—are clearly familiar with the essentials of a successful neighborhood bar: beer, nice bartenders and a laid-back vibe.
Whiskey Tavern repeats the formula but adds an outdoor garden (open until 11 p.m. on weekdays and midnight on weekends), suds-soaking food (see below) and an extensive list of, yes, whiskeys, including Black Maple Hill ($10), Pappy Van Winkel ($15) and The Famous Grouse ($9), as well as bourbons and whiskey-based cocktails like the Manhattan-esque Traveling Secretary ($10 for a very generous pour). If, by chance, the hard stuff doesn’t appeal, there’s a decent variety of draft (Guinness is $6) and bottled beer (but please don’t get an Amstel, $6). While the wines are listed by color only, one can still celebrate a "not guilty" verdict with a bottle of Moet White Star ($125). Hooray! That’s less than the bail bonds across the street.
You can eat at Whiskey Tavern, too. Their burger ($8) is a thick oval of meat slapped onto a crusty hunk of French bread and served with pleasantly crispy fries; a nominally daintier option is the blue cheese, bacon and avocado-laden Cobb Salad ($12). Slightly out of keeping with the bar’s boozehound appeal, Whiskey Tavern also offers a two-egg sandwich for $5 (as if beer were not the breakfast of champions!), dressed with roasted garlic mayo on a club roll.
Whiskey Tavern opens at 11 a.m. daily, and, if you feel like surviving five hours of firewater, you can catch happy hour (4–7 p.m.), when Miller Lite drafts and Miller High Life bottles are $3, Buds and Bud Lites are $4, well drinks are $6, and (why not?) cosmos and apple martinis are $6, too.
Digs: Snazzy on the outside, worn on the inside, with a loved and lived-in feel. From the old wooden barstools to the tiny amber votives, it’s good-looking but not uptight, comfy but not sloppy.
Vibe: A neighborhood bar that aimed for the local drunks but got the local drinkers. Smart, friendly, outgoing and, above all, unpretentious.
Music: A great mix of Motown classics segues into punk and rock at night. The piano player is a highlight on Tuesdays and Wednesdays (from 6–9 p.m.); with a mix of ‘70s rock and pop, it’s an update on old-timey that fits the bar well.
Bottom line: For patrons transient and not, Whiskey Tavern feels like some kind of home—or at least one that’s saturated with alcohol and goodwill. In other words, what you need on your one-hour jury duty lunch break.
WHISKEY TAVERN:: 79 Baxter St. between Bayard and Walker Sts.
212-374-9119
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